A Weekend in Mombasa

A few weeks back I had the opportunity to visit Mombasa, one of the coastal cities in Kenya. Right on the Indian ocean :) I had debated taking a trip there for a few weeks--the 10 hour bus ride, the money, the limited amount of time I had to spend there--before finally caving and buying a ticket. I am so glad I did! Yes, the bus ride was long. And yes, I spent more money than I had intended to. But, the long weekend in Mombasa was a perfect mini-cation. It was one of those trips where everything just fell into place perfectly!

My friend Molly and I arrived in Mombasa at 8PM after a full day of travel. I felt a huge gust of heavy salty air the moment we stepped off the bus. It was invigorating! This was an adventure! A little post-travel groggy, we began looking around for a ride to our hotel and spotted a tuk tuk right away. A tuk tuk is a 3-wheeled passenger vehicle very common in Mombasa. Our tuk tuk navigated the streets of the city, while we were jostled about in the back. There was very little to see in the dark apart from the lanterns and candles that illuminated shops along the route, the occasional lit up sign, and the black water beneath us as we crossed over a bridge leading to the island.

A tuk tuk seen in Oldtown, Mombasa

By the time we settled into our hotel (right on the ocean!), I was exhausted! But, we headed out to meet other MSIDers and catch up after spending nearly a month apart from each other.


The next morning, I was up by 6:00AM.  I spent my 2 full days in Mombasa, rising with the sun. Which is pretty astonishing for me! That said, it's really amazing how much you can pack into a day.

On day one we went snorkeling at a Marine Reserve. I had never been snorkeling before, and I am not the worlds best swimmer, so I was both excited and apprehensive. Surprisingly, I was able to float-swim along just fine. Maybe it's the salt water? The breathing pattern was an adjustment, but after inhaling a few gulps of ocean, I got the hang of it. There's so much life to be seen under the surface! I saw plenty of beautiful fish, sea anemones, sea cucumbers, and coral.

After snorkeling, while the rest of the group went for lunch, I met a guy to ask about going horseback riding on the beach. As an avid equestrian (aka: total horse geek) I have always wanted to ride on the beach. I was completely ill prepared, barefoot and wearing a swim suit cover up (my butt hurt a lot by the end of my ride). But it was worth the moments of racing Mina up the beach, sand and water flying. I was pretty deliriously happy by the end of my ride.

Later in the evening, Molly and I decided to venture down the beach near our hotel. I met a lady earlier who offered massages on the beach, who remembered me from earlier. She lead us into a small wooden hut on the beach, where we got a great hour long massage. With the waves crashing just outside the door and the sun setting through the slates in the wood, it was easily the most ideal massage in the history of massages. It was a perfect way to end the day.

I went to bed that night feeling completely content :)

In the morning we  spent several delicious hours by the beach and pool side soaking up the sun. I completely get why people head out on several week long beach vacations now--it was beyond relaxing! The pool had a swim-up bar and also offered "pool aerobics" classes, so we were sufficiently occupied.

In the afternoon, we headed down to the beach for a camel ride. Our camel's name was Jamal. He was wearing a scarf. A winter scarf, tied neatly around his neck. Jamal's handler lead us down the beach. His walk, rather than the smooth gait I expected, is almost rolling. You barely feel like you are moving, when suddenly you are lurching forward. As we once again approached the hotel, the camel knelt down and we dismounted. The minute we got done riding him, Jamal went back to what appeared to be his favorite activity--lounging on the beach.

Molly and me riding Jamal the camel on the beach :)

After spending the morning and the previous day beach bumming, what I really wanted to see was the city itself. Molly and I had heard that Old Town Mombasa was the place to be for taste of what coastal culture and Mombasa's history was all about.

So, we walked out of the hotel and looked around for a tuk tuk to take us to town. There was a quiet man in a purple shirt who gestured to us. He offered to take us and the price was fair, so we climbed in.

I began chatting with our driver, who I learned was called Leonard. He asked a bit about what we were doing in Mombasa and our time so far in Kenya. After I explained that this was our first time in Mombasa, and our curiosity about seeing Old Town, Leonard offered to walk around with us and show us things. I figured, "why not?"

Leondard first drove us to Fort Jesus, an immense crumbling structure built by the Portuguese in the late 1500s, and a classic symbol of Mombasa. As we walked up to the gate, Leonard stopped to introduce us to his friend, who was supposedly volunteer tour guide for the area. Immediately the stranger danger I had learned in Nairobi kicked in. I try not to be judgmental, but this guy simply didn't look the part of a volunteer tour guide. But, before I had time to explain that, no, Molly and I were just fine, we'd explore Ford Jesus and Old Town on our own--we don't have money--we were being lead into the Fort.

We stepped inside the enclosed walls. I was skeptical, thinking quickly, trying to figure out a way to get out of the situation before this guy tried to get some quick cash out of the stupid tourists who believed he was a tour guide. But, as soon as we walked in, he began to explain the history of the building. He was articulate, intelligent, and extremely knowledgeable. Molly and I exchanged a look of surprise. Making our way through the architecture, I was reminded of a very important lesson: don't judge a book by its cover. Later, after our tour of Fort Jesus and having strolled through Old Town's streets, the four of us headed b Later ack to the tuk tuk. Our tour guide shook our hands and began to walk away. He had asked for nothing. He taken over an hour out of his day simply to give us the history of Mombasa.

The view of Mombasa from Fort Jesus 

On our way home, Leonard told us about himself. Although he had overcome many tragedies in his lifetime, he believed that he was a man of God and lead his life accordingly. Leonard had been cheated by his boss at a job he worked at for four years, he had sold all his belongings to pay for a surgery to save his leg after a boda boda (motorcycle) accident, and yet he still had faith that his life was a blessing.

We arranged for Leondard to pick us up the following the morning to take us to the airport. We had decided based on our limited schedule that we would be flying out the next morning, instead of taking a bus back (a decision that would save us 9.5 hours for only a little more).

In the morning at the scheduled time, he was there. As we drove through Mombasa, I felt like our trip had been complete. When we reached the airport we asked Leonard for a price, preparing for a small negotiation. But, Leonard told us simply to pay him as we saw fit. I was surprised. Molly and I thanked him for his kindness and promised to pass his name on to our friends in Mombasa.

A few minutes later as we were getting in line to go through security, Molly noticed that she didn't have her iphone. Panic ensued as she torn apart her bags looking for it. Realizing she must have left it in the tuk tuk, she ran out side to search for Leonard. But he was already gone. Frantically, she called him on the phone. Leonard picked up and told her had found her iphone under the seat and was returning to give it to her.

This brings me to perhaps the best experience we had in Mombasa. While this man could have sold her phone for a few hundred dollars, and made some easy cash, he instead came back to give it to its owner. My experience with this wonderful person confirmed something that I often forget: the world is full of so many good people. Sometimes I get lost in the hustle of Nairobi, the bargaining, and the traffic jams, the necessity of being "street smart" that I over look simple acts of kindness. It is so good to have reminders. I would just like to take a minute to appreciate Leonard and his outlook on life. :)

Overall, my Mombasa trip was a great success. The Kenyan coast is a place I would love to travel to again someday. Maybe a trip to Lamu or Malindi in my future? You never know.

-Alissa

Kibera Girls Soccer Academy: On Kibera, Educating Girls, and My Internship Experience

I haven't updated my blog in over a month: I am an expert procrastinator (although I'd like to blame it on being busy and finally adjusting to my daily schedule and life in Nairobi instead.)

In the time since my last post I began an internship at Kibera Girls Soccer Academy or KGSA in Nairobi. This post is about Kibera, the history of the school, and what I have learned in the six weeks I have spent working there.

First of all, what is Kibera?

In encyclopedia terms, Kibera is Africa's largest slum and the second biggest slum in the world. It covers one square mile in the southwestern corner of Kenya's capitol, where I live. Kibera boarders one of the most affluent neighborhoods (in that strange city-irony) in Nairobi, Karen, known for its big houses, ex-pats, and well-to-do schools.

The average family in Kibera lives in a one room 12ft by 12ft foot shack with mud walls, a tin roof, and a dirt or concrete floor. A small percentage of families have electricity, but it is not always reliable. The majority of families do not have running water. Toilets, usually just a hole in the ground, are few and far between and very often unsanitary. Residents pay to collect water from one of two pipelines that run through the slum for daily use.

Due to many factors, Kibera has high rates of alcoholism, unwanted pregnancy, domestic abuse, and drug use.

But...What is Kibera to me?

If you have never been to a slum before, it is at first overwhelming. You think life works one way and--despite the pictures you have looked at online, despite the articles you have read--that one way is all you know.

You are struck first by the close proximity of so much life: so many shops and houses, so many children, so many people laboring in the sun. You taste a hundred different smells at once: sweat, piled up garbage, mud, something sweet cooking.  Once you step off of the road and you walk into the heart of Kibera, you stumble walking, stepping, sometimes jumping, over muddy puddles filled with garbage.

The slum is immense. When you stand on the train tracks that connect Kenya to the Ugandan railway running through Kibera's center, it is a living, breathing, thing sprawled out before you.

And little by little, Kibera finds its way into your being. 

Despite all of the negative stigma surrounding the slum and the reality, Kibera is a place like any other. It is the place nearly one million--a third of the city's population--people call home.

Struggle does not mean that life does not continue. Poverty does not necessarily mean that there is no pleasure. Children play in the streets, when they see me a dozen voices chant "How are you?" in unison. Women get their hair done, they dress up. There is music, radios blasting from matatus and playing in shops.

When all your life Sarah McLachlan ballads and images of starving African children in the worst conditions possible have been pushed at you to donate, to give, to buy Toms shoes-- it is no wonder that we easily forget that people live in places like Kibera. 

School and the Girl Child

Although I have already highlighted some of the difficulties of life in Kibera, young women living in the slum are at a disadvantage not only for their poverty, but also because of their gender. There are expectations of a girl child: she is often expected to work at home, to tend to her siblings, and to prepare for life as a wife and mother herself. Unwanted pregnancy rates amongst teenagers living in the slum are high. Physical and mental abuse of women is common. 

Additionally, although Secondary Education in Kenya was made free in 2008, many struggle to pay for the cost of the required school uniform or to provide lunch every day for their child. Many families who have the ability to send one child to school, favor the male child instead of the girl, who is left at home. Many girls even miss school because they simply don't have the necessary sanitary napkins to wear during their periods or the money to buy them. 

School is not always the priority.

Kibera Girls Soccer Academy

I first heard of KGSA last semester when one of my Kiswahili classmates showed us a few Youtube clips from the school, where he had worked the year before. I could never have imagined, watching those videos, that I would be there in a few short months. The world works in mysterious ways.

Kibera Girls Soccer Academy is located in the middle of Kibera. The founder, Abdul Kassim, saw the gender inequality and the situation girls faced growing up in the slum, and decided to do something about it. He began a small all girls soccer team as a way to provide support and foster positivity amongst young women. But, when several team members dropped out due to unintended pregnancy, he began to realize that the solution was something more--education.

The rest, as they say, is history. Since it began, KGSA has really developed. Today around 130 girls attend the school. Many volunteers from Kibera have been taken on as part of the full-time teaching staff, committed to the empowerment of young women. the school itself has expanded too. Where it was once a single room classroom, there are now 3 classrooms, a library, and a science lab.

In addition to academics, soccer remains an integral part of the learning experience for many of the girls. The soccer team teaches them about teamwork, and accepting wins and defeats with poise and positivity. Clubs, such as Journalism Club, are equally important as they cultivate individual interests.

My experience

Most days I arrive at work around 10AM, usually in time for chai and mandazi. Note: If you have read my other blog posts, I have probably stressed the importance of the chai ritual here (and how addicted to it I have become), but let me just say again chai is really important, guys. Also, mandazi are delicious East African doughnuts. It's a good way to start the day.

My duties vary from day to day, but I love the irregularity.

Some days I teach the Form 1 and Form 2 students, respectively, beginning French lessons. On my second day at KGSA, before I began teaching, I was led into the classroom by the girls themselves. They wanted to learn French, they said. And so it began. Teaching French to 30-something girls at a time provided in a cramped classroom with no materials but the chalk I have in hand, provides a new kind of challenge to me. But when the girls themselves are so passionate about learning the language (and making fun of me), half of the challenge is over. 

Other days, I observe tests, or assist in marking papers. Since the school term officially ended on November 22nd, I have been helping out with the Journalism Club, assist in editing videos and teaching how to edit using Final Cut Pro software.

Everyday I consider myself lucky that life presented me with such an experience. I have gotten so much out of my time in Kibera, KGSA, and the amazing staff and girls I work with. I can only hope that I have been able to give them a small portion of what they have given me.

Waiting for of the term awards ceremony to begin.

KGSA girls and me :)

Please take the time to find out a little bit more about what I do and the agency I work for:

Click here to find more about the school and the KGSA foundation.

Also, here is an excellent TEDtalk about KGSA.

--Alissa

Under African Skies: My Safari Experience in Masai Mara

This past weekend I got the opportunity to visit Masai Mara National Reserve on a three-day safari. Said to be the 8th Wonder of the World, and portrayed in various films and documentaries worldwide, Masai Mara, which runs into Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, is a huge game reserve in on the Kenyan-Tanzanian boarder. One of the few places in the world where you can see "The Big Five" (lions, black rhinos, elephants, buffalo, and leopards) all in one afternoon, Masai Mara is basically the quintessential safari experience.

Mara is the Maa word (the language spoken by the Masai people) for "spotted," which accurately describes the vast hilly landscape speckled with scrub brush, Acacia trees, tall grass, and the occasional sausage tree (click here if you want to find out what on earth a sausage tree is). 

It was a good 7-hour drive from Nairobi to The Mara, longer than I had initially anticipated. We left early in the morning and arrived early afternoon. As we neared the reserve, the road became gravely and bumpy. Dust seemed to seep into all the cracks and crevices in the vehicle. By the time we arrived, I was eager to get out of the van and stretch!

Home, sweet home! Our safari tent

We stayed in a safari camp just outside of the game reserve, as opposed to one of the significantly more expensive lodges located within. Our tent was comfortable, with two beds and an attached bathroom. There was limited electricity available during certain hours as well. Meals were provided for us in a common room that also boasted a small cash bar. 

After eating a delicious lunch and taking a short nap, we headed out for an evening game drive. 

A safari vehicle similar to ours, and the sun setting over the reserve

To my surprise, the roof of the van we had driven to Masai Mara in was able to pop up, enabling us to stand in the back and take pictures without any interference. (If you're not entirely sure what I mean, click on the picture to the right to enlarge it)

Books and films always talk about how big the sky is in Africa. I didn't truly understand this until I visited Masai Mara. The skies were bright blue and expansive, dotted and swirled with clouds so 

perfect I felt like someone had painted them.

More than once I found myself standing up at the back of our safari van, feeling the wind run through my hair, looking out at the landscape and wildlife surrounding me, thinking "I can't believe I live in such a beautiful world!" Yes, cheesy, I know.

An elephant baby and mother.

On our first day out we saw hundreds of zebra, wildebeest, buffalo, and impala. We saw plenty of elephants and a few lions as well! We returned back to camp just as the sun was setting and shadows were settling on the hills. Not a single setting on my camera managed to capture the natural beauty of that moment--the sky was on fire!

By the time we ate dinner, and a had Tusker (one of the biggest East African beers) it was already time for bed. The electricity cut off at 10:00. My last few minutes before crawling into bed were spent outside, gazing at the stars. I am usually able to recognize at least the main constellations, like the big dipper, but I was completely disoriented by the immensity of the sky--I have never seen so many stars!

The next morning we woke up early for breakfast: eggs, toast, sausage and, of course, warm chai. Then I stumbled, still half asleep, into the van for a full day safari. You might think driving around watching wildlife could get boring, but it was far from it. 

Wildebeest migrating from the Mara to the Serengeti 

During certain months hundred of thousands of Thompson's gazelle, zebra, and wildebeest migrate from the Masai Mara National Reserve south to Tanzania and The Serengeti. The Great Migration peak is during the month of July. The season ends in early October, so we were fortunate enough to catch the last few groups of migrating animals. We drove through herds of hundreds of wildebeest and zebra!

Here I am, modeling at the boarder between
Masai Mara Reserve in Kenya and Serengeti National Park in Tanzania

After making a stop at the boarder where Masai Mara National Reserve becomes Serengeti National Park in Tanzania for a picture, we headed towards the infamous Mara River, a necessary crossing point for the migrating herds. Since we were visiting the park near the end of the season, I didn't get to see any animals crossing. We did, however, see the hundreds of bodies of wildebeest that either been both trampled and drowned in the river. After lunch (not too far away from the wildebeest graveyard) we went on a brief guided river walk with a park ranger to see hippos and crocodiles.

Hundreds of wildebeest who did not make the crossing of the Mara River :(

Look at that face! And those little stubby legs!
Can you believe the hippo is one of the most dangerous animals on earth?

There were several highlights of the second day's safari. For one, we saw a leopard. Leopards are rare, as they are quite elusive. We were able to get very close to this one, however. He was sleepy, lounging under a tree after a big meal. We also saw buzzards feeding upon a wildebeest carcass. Strangely, it was absolutely fascinating! One buzzard even fully crawled INTO the dead animal. But, perhaps the biggest highlight of the day was when several young male lions approached our vehicle! They were so close that I could have reached out the window and pet them like kittens.

We concluded our day with a visit to a nearby Masai village. In the face of the modern age, the Masai have managed to preserve their beautiful culture and heritage. We were shown around the community and given tours of their homes. Additionally, they showed us how to build a fire "the Masai way" and showed us some plants and leaves they use on a daily basis, including one used for toilet paper and another used to sand wood and clean your fingernails. They also sang a song traditionally sang after killing a lion for us!

Jumping with the Masai! Note: my awkward jumping face!

Afterwards, we toured the local school where many Masai children attend classes. For me, it was just a glimpse of what the Masai life is. John, one of the Masai that I met, invited me back to stay and learn more about their language and culture (by the way, he has Facebook, something I was a little surprised to learn!) Maybe someday I will have the opportunity to return.

The next day we rose with the sun. Before we had even had breakfast, we were out for a game drive. What could we possibly see that we had not seen the day before? I wondered. But, I was wrong. Nature always has a surprise in store it would seem. That morning we got to watch lions devouring their breakfast--a recently killed wildebeest. Afterwards, we watched a few lions stalk their prey through the grass. It was remarkable to see them slink slowly across the land, as impala and water buffalo scattered.

All in all, my visit to Masai Mara was an experience, perhaps for a lifetime.

Alissa

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Greetings from Kenya: My Daily Life in Nairobi

Welcome to my blog! If you are wondering where I am wandering, this is the place for you!

Currently, I am in Nairobi, Kenya, where I am studying abroad through the Minnesota Studies in International Development program, aka: MSID. (If you are curious about this program/would like a better explanation of all that MSID has to offer students check it out here.)

The MSID crew stops at the Great Rift Valley view point for a picture

I arrived in Nairobi a little over a month ago, after a week long orientation (in other words: vacation) in Nakuru National Park. Nakuru National Park is located in Central Kenya, a few hours outside of the capitol, Nairobi, which I am calling home for the next few months. Nakuru is known for its beautiful lake filled with flamingos (although the number has significantly diminished in recent years), big game animals, and spectacular views.  While there, I got to know the other 10 people on the MSID program with me a bit better and take a nice technology break. Orientation also included an awesome game drive around Lake Nakuru and a visit to the equator.

View of Lake Nakuru as the day comes to a close.

Here I am at the equator!

Following our first few days relaxing in Nakuru, we were bused back to Nairobi to meet our host families. One of the reasons I chose to study abroad via MSID was the home stay experience. Whenever I travel, the best way to get to know a culture is, obviously, through the people who live there. I am living with the best possible family placement--they are truly wonderful and welcoming people!

My host mother's name is Jennifer, but I call her "mom" like the rest of the family. She is an incredibly strong woman who balances running the household and her job as a member of parliament in Kitui, where she travels to work during the week days.

I have two host brothers, Mwendwa and Mumo. Mumo is a lawyer, and Mwendwa works as a doctor out of town, so he is only here on weekends. I also have a host sister, Mumo's wife, Sheila. She and Mumo live down the street, but are over at our house all the time! I absolutely love Sheila. In the time that I have been here, she has been such a good friend to me. She even took me to pierce my ears, which is something which I had somehow managed to avoid for the past in the 21+ years of my life but really needed to change.

Here I am with Sheila, my host sister, after I removed my braids and had crazy hair!

Sheila and Mumo have a beautiful two year old daughter, Shanna. She used to be afraid of me (her favorite phrase was "ninaogopa Alissa" which translates to "I am afraid of Alissa") but I paved the way for white women everywhere, and now we have gotten to be friends. Like most two-year-olds, she's a constant source of entertainment.

I also have a host cousin, Rehema, who lives in Mombasa, but stays in Nairobi with her aunt so she can attend one of the local universities. We are the same age, so she has been great in introducing me to some of her Kenyan friends and accompanying me on a few adventures around the city.

Kenyans have a strong sense of community, so there are always plenty of visitors and fresh faces in my home as well!

My family lives in an area of Nairobi called Ngumo in a gated community. It is a mostly middle class, "Kenyan" neighborhood, with a somewhat quieter feel than downtown Nairobi. The Kenyatta Market is located right outside the estate where I live. It is an area that is constantly bustling with life: people selling products ranging from chickens and vegetables to children's toys and dresses. However, it is best known for being the ideal spot to get your hair done. 

The view inside of the estate where I live.
On the right: a small shop where I often buy bananas or minutes for my phone.

The MSID program has an 8-week classroom phase, followed by a 6 week long internship. I am currently in the middle of the classroom phase, so every morning I make the 20 minute walk to class. I am taking my classes at Nazarene University. Nazarene is also a church, so I arrive in the morning to the sound of people worshipping and singing.

Outside of Nazarene with some MSID home girls and our friend Caleb the security guard

I am taking classes in Advanced Swahili Language; Development, Country Analysis, which is an overview of Kenya), and Education & Literacy in Kenya. I attend my classes from 8:30 till 3:30 most days, unless we get out early or have a field trip, both of which are starting to happen with more frequency. Our teachers are pretty chill about when classes actually begin. Things run on "Kenyan time," which is always a good 5-15 minutes later than the set time. Who knew that I had been running on Kenyan time my whole life?

Tea time--or chai time--is a big part of the culture here as well, and not just exclusively in the home. Our studies are interrupted at 10:30 sharp (by Kenyan standards) with tea and biscuits. Kenyan chai is best served warm, milky, with tons of sugar. I am such an addict!

There is a canteen on the Nazarene grounds, which has a limited (but inexpensive) menu. Most days, unless we are feeling adventurous or have extra time, we eat our lunches there. Sometimes I walk around the corner to buy some fresh fruit (usually a mixed fruit tray of avocado, papaya, watermelon, beet root, and pineapple) from a fruit stand there. In fact, I visit the fruit stand so often that the owner has come to expect my arrival. It's always fresh and delicious!

If I want to travel anywhere outside of Ngumo (e.g. downtown) I have to go by bus or matatu. Matatus are privately owned minibuses. They are a very common mode of transportation around Kenya. They are super cheap--although they often try and trick foreigners into paying way more than the actual cost-and run all over the city. The public transportation system here is daunting, so I hesitated to travel around this way at first. Also, can I just say that Kenyans give the most confusing directions?! In certain contexts, I travel by taxi. My friends and I all use the same driver, Joseph. He's a lot of fun and definitely loves foreigners. His taxi is always tuned into the Top 40, and his favorite phrase is "Welcome to the music!"

Of course my time here has been challenging, but it has also been a rewarding and beautiful experience! I will be updating soon on my things to see and do in Nairobi and my trip to Masai Mara.

Bisous,
Alissa