Under African Skies: My Safari Experience in Masai Mara

This past weekend I got the opportunity to visit Masai Mara National Reserve on a three-day safari. Said to be the 8th Wonder of the World, and portrayed in various films and documentaries worldwide, Masai Mara, which runs into Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, is a huge game reserve in on the Kenyan-Tanzanian boarder. One of the few places in the world where you can see "The Big Five" (lions, black rhinos, elephants, buffalo, and leopards) all in one afternoon, Masai Mara is basically the quintessential safari experience.

Mara is the Maa word (the language spoken by the Masai people) for "spotted," which accurately describes the vast hilly landscape speckled with scrub brush, Acacia trees, tall grass, and the occasional sausage tree (click here if you want to find out what on earth a sausage tree is). 

It was a good 7-hour drive from Nairobi to The Mara, longer than I had initially anticipated. We left early in the morning and arrived early afternoon. As we neared the reserve, the road became gravely and bumpy. Dust seemed to seep into all the cracks and crevices in the vehicle. By the time we arrived, I was eager to get out of the van and stretch!

Home, sweet home! Our safari tent

We stayed in a safari camp just outside of the game reserve, as opposed to one of the significantly more expensive lodges located within. Our tent was comfortable, with two beds and an attached bathroom. There was limited electricity available during certain hours as well. Meals were provided for us in a common room that also boasted a small cash bar. 

After eating a delicious lunch and taking a short nap, we headed out for an evening game drive. 

A safari vehicle similar to ours, and the sun setting over the reserve

To my surprise, the roof of the van we had driven to Masai Mara in was able to pop up, enabling us to stand in the back and take pictures without any interference. (If you're not entirely sure what I mean, click on the picture to the right to enlarge it)

Books and films always talk about how big the sky is in Africa. I didn't truly understand this until I visited Masai Mara. The skies were bright blue and expansive, dotted and swirled with clouds so 

perfect I felt like someone had painted them.

More than once I found myself standing up at the back of our safari van, feeling the wind run through my hair, looking out at the landscape and wildlife surrounding me, thinking "I can't believe I live in such a beautiful world!" Yes, cheesy, I know.

An elephant baby and mother.

On our first day out we saw hundreds of zebra, wildebeest, buffalo, and impala. We saw plenty of elephants and a few lions as well! We returned back to camp just as the sun was setting and shadows were settling on the hills. Not a single setting on my camera managed to capture the natural beauty of that moment--the sky was on fire!

By the time we ate dinner, and a had Tusker (one of the biggest East African beers) it was already time for bed. The electricity cut off at 10:00. My last few minutes before crawling into bed were spent outside, gazing at the stars. I am usually able to recognize at least the main constellations, like the big dipper, but I was completely disoriented by the immensity of the sky--I have never seen so many stars!

The next morning we woke up early for breakfast: eggs, toast, sausage and, of course, warm chai. Then I stumbled, still half asleep, into the van for a full day safari. You might think driving around watching wildlife could get boring, but it was far from it. 

Wildebeest migrating from the Mara to the Serengeti 

During certain months hundred of thousands of Thompson's gazelle, zebra, and wildebeest migrate from the Masai Mara National Reserve south to Tanzania and The Serengeti. The Great Migration peak is during the month of July. The season ends in early October, so we were fortunate enough to catch the last few groups of migrating animals. We drove through herds of hundreds of wildebeest and zebra!

Here I am, modeling at the boarder between
Masai Mara Reserve in Kenya and Serengeti National Park in Tanzania

After making a stop at the boarder where Masai Mara National Reserve becomes Serengeti National Park in Tanzania for a picture, we headed towards the infamous Mara River, a necessary crossing point for the migrating herds. Since we were visiting the park near the end of the season, I didn't get to see any animals crossing. We did, however, see the hundreds of bodies of wildebeest that either been both trampled and drowned in the river. After lunch (not too far away from the wildebeest graveyard) we went on a brief guided river walk with a park ranger to see hippos and crocodiles.

Hundreds of wildebeest who did not make the crossing of the Mara River :(

Look at that face! And those little stubby legs!
Can you believe the hippo is one of the most dangerous animals on earth?

There were several highlights of the second day's safari. For one, we saw a leopard. Leopards are rare, as they are quite elusive. We were able to get very close to this one, however. He was sleepy, lounging under a tree after a big meal. We also saw buzzards feeding upon a wildebeest carcass. Strangely, it was absolutely fascinating! One buzzard even fully crawled INTO the dead animal. But, perhaps the biggest highlight of the day was when several young male lions approached our vehicle! They were so close that I could have reached out the window and pet them like kittens.

We concluded our day with a visit to a nearby Masai village. In the face of the modern age, the Masai have managed to preserve their beautiful culture and heritage. We were shown around the community and given tours of their homes. Additionally, they showed us how to build a fire "the Masai way" and showed us some plants and leaves they use on a daily basis, including one used for toilet paper and another used to sand wood and clean your fingernails. They also sang a song traditionally sang after killing a lion for us!

Jumping with the Masai! Note: my awkward jumping face!

Afterwards, we toured the local school where many Masai children attend classes. For me, it was just a glimpse of what the Masai life is. John, one of the Masai that I met, invited me back to stay and learn more about their language and culture (by the way, he has Facebook, something I was a little surprised to learn!) Maybe someday I will have the opportunity to return.

The next day we rose with the sun. Before we had even had breakfast, we were out for a game drive. What could we possibly see that we had not seen the day before? I wondered. But, I was wrong. Nature always has a surprise in store it would seem. That morning we got to watch lions devouring their breakfast--a recently killed wildebeest. Afterwards, we watched a few lions stalk their prey through the grass. It was remarkable to see them slink slowly across the land, as impala and water buffalo scattered.

All in all, my visit to Masai Mara was an experience, perhaps for a lifetime.

Alissa

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Greetings from Kenya: My Daily Life in Nairobi

Welcome to my blog! If you are wondering where I am wandering, this is the place for you!

Currently, I am in Nairobi, Kenya, where I am studying abroad through the Minnesota Studies in International Development program, aka: MSID. (If you are curious about this program/would like a better explanation of all that MSID has to offer students check it out here.)

The MSID crew stops at the Great Rift Valley view point for a picture

I arrived in Nairobi a little over a month ago, after a week long orientation (in other words: vacation) in Nakuru National Park. Nakuru National Park is located in Central Kenya, a few hours outside of the capitol, Nairobi, which I am calling home for the next few months. Nakuru is known for its beautiful lake filled with flamingos (although the number has significantly diminished in recent years), big game animals, and spectacular views.  While there, I got to know the other 10 people on the MSID program with me a bit better and take a nice technology break. Orientation also included an awesome game drive around Lake Nakuru and a visit to the equator.

View of Lake Nakuru as the day comes to a close.

Here I am at the equator!

Following our first few days relaxing in Nakuru, we were bused back to Nairobi to meet our host families. One of the reasons I chose to study abroad via MSID was the home stay experience. Whenever I travel, the best way to get to know a culture is, obviously, through the people who live there. I am living with the best possible family placement--they are truly wonderful and welcoming people!

My host mother's name is Jennifer, but I call her "mom" like the rest of the family. She is an incredibly strong woman who balances running the household and her job as a member of parliament in Kitui, where she travels to work during the week days.

I have two host brothers, Mwendwa and Mumo. Mumo is a lawyer, and Mwendwa works as a doctor out of town, so he is only here on weekends. I also have a host sister, Mumo's wife, Sheila. She and Mumo live down the street, but are over at our house all the time! I absolutely love Sheila. In the time that I have been here, she has been such a good friend to me. She even took me to pierce my ears, which is something which I had somehow managed to avoid for the past in the 21+ years of my life but really needed to change.

Here I am with Sheila, my host sister, after I removed my braids and had crazy hair!

Sheila and Mumo have a beautiful two year old daughter, Shanna. She used to be afraid of me (her favorite phrase was "ninaogopa Alissa" which translates to "I am afraid of Alissa") but I paved the way for white women everywhere, and now we have gotten to be friends. Like most two-year-olds, she's a constant source of entertainment.

I also have a host cousin, Rehema, who lives in Mombasa, but stays in Nairobi with her aunt so she can attend one of the local universities. We are the same age, so she has been great in introducing me to some of her Kenyan friends and accompanying me on a few adventures around the city.

Kenyans have a strong sense of community, so there are always plenty of visitors and fresh faces in my home as well!

My family lives in an area of Nairobi called Ngumo in a gated community. It is a mostly middle class, "Kenyan" neighborhood, with a somewhat quieter feel than downtown Nairobi. The Kenyatta Market is located right outside the estate where I live. It is an area that is constantly bustling with life: people selling products ranging from chickens and vegetables to children's toys and dresses. However, it is best known for being the ideal spot to get your hair done. 

The view inside of the estate where I live.
On the right: a small shop where I often buy bananas or minutes for my phone.

The MSID program has an 8-week classroom phase, followed by a 6 week long internship. I am currently in the middle of the classroom phase, so every morning I make the 20 minute walk to class. I am taking my classes at Nazarene University. Nazarene is also a church, so I arrive in the morning to the sound of people worshipping and singing.

Outside of Nazarene with some MSID home girls and our friend Caleb the security guard

I am taking classes in Advanced Swahili Language; Development, Country Analysis, which is an overview of Kenya), and Education & Literacy in Kenya. I attend my classes from 8:30 till 3:30 most days, unless we get out early or have a field trip, both of which are starting to happen with more frequency. Our teachers are pretty chill about when classes actually begin. Things run on "Kenyan time," which is always a good 5-15 minutes later than the set time. Who knew that I had been running on Kenyan time my whole life?

Tea time--or chai time--is a big part of the culture here as well, and not just exclusively in the home. Our studies are interrupted at 10:30 sharp (by Kenyan standards) with tea and biscuits. Kenyan chai is best served warm, milky, with tons of sugar. I am such an addict!

There is a canteen on the Nazarene grounds, which has a limited (but inexpensive) menu. Most days, unless we are feeling adventurous or have extra time, we eat our lunches there. Sometimes I walk around the corner to buy some fresh fruit (usually a mixed fruit tray of avocado, papaya, watermelon, beet root, and pineapple) from a fruit stand there. In fact, I visit the fruit stand so often that the owner has come to expect my arrival. It's always fresh and delicious!

If I want to travel anywhere outside of Ngumo (e.g. downtown) I have to go by bus or matatu. Matatus are privately owned minibuses. They are a very common mode of transportation around Kenya. They are super cheap--although they often try and trick foreigners into paying way more than the actual cost-and run all over the city. The public transportation system here is daunting, so I hesitated to travel around this way at first. Also, can I just say that Kenyans give the most confusing directions?! In certain contexts, I travel by taxi. My friends and I all use the same driver, Joseph. He's a lot of fun and definitely loves foreigners. His taxi is always tuned into the Top 40, and his favorite phrase is "Welcome to the music!"

Of course my time here has been challenging, but it has also been a rewarding and beautiful experience! I will be updating soon on my things to see and do in Nairobi and my trip to Masai Mara.

Bisous,
Alissa